Louis Vuitton's New Prize Looks To The Future Of Watchmaking

One of the most pervasive concepts in watchmaking — thanks in no small part to Patek Philippe's iconic ad campaign — is the concept of passing it onto the next generation. Most of the time, this intergenerational handover is all about the watches themselves, precious objects being passed from father to daughter and so on. Still, it's not the only lineage worth preserving.

Far more important than preserving individual watches is preserving everything around them. The knowledge, expertise and culture that combines into that wonderful alchemy that’s the world of watches. This is what we need to preserve and foster. Older players in the watch game realize this because they've lived through it before. In the 1970s and 80s, the period known as the 'Quartz Crisis' decimated not just watch brands as businesses but as repositories of skills, knowledge and infrastructure. It's taken decades to build all these elements up, and we always need to be looking to the future, and ensuring it looks positive. 

One group doing its part in adding new chapters to the story of watchmaking is Louis Vuitton. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton — based out of Geneva — has organized and announced the biennial Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The LVMH group is the largest luxury group in the world, and one of the largest companies in the world. Their watchmaking portfolio (consisting mainly of Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari and Zenith) might not be as large as those held by Richemont and Swatch, but it is undeniably significant. Louis Vuitton takes their role in promoting watchmaking seriously, and this award is the latest example. Jean Arnault, Director of Watches at Louis Vuitton, who founded the prize, has this to say about the importance of this initiative. "Watchmaking is not a dormant industry; it is not inaccessible. Young generations of watch enthusiasts are passionate and want to see new innovations on the market. That’s why we want to create this initiative at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton." He continues, "This is a philanthropic and independent initiative to encourage watchmaking innovation and reward the best ideas in terms of technical innovation and avant-garde but also the traditional savoir-faire." 

So, that's why this prize exists: but what is it, and who can enter? Interestingly enough, unlike other watchmaking awards, this one isn't just for watchmakers, or limited to a specific country. It's open to all. Watchmakers, designers, entrepreneurs, recent graduates, creatives from all around the world — everyone is welcome. The prize is impressive too, with the winner receiving a 150,000 euro grant and something potentially more valuable — a year-long mentorship program at La Fabrique du Temps, tailored to the winner's skills and needs, which could offer invaluable skills and insight into the business of watches. This is where the support of Louis Vuitton really shines. If a young watchmaker (for example) has enough talent to win the prize, they may not need so much assistance on the actual watchmaking side of things. However, marketing, branding, legal and business support. Mentorship in all these areas would truly allow young talent to start a professional life in the best possible position.

Candidates can register online from the start of 2023, and have until the end of May 2023. From that point, applications will be reviewed and shortlisted into 20 semi-finalists which will be announced in September 2023. These chosen few will then be evaluated by a committee of experts (including Wristcheck’s founder Austen Chu). This committee will also elect a jury of five to undertake the final round of judging. “I’m honored to be one of the panelists for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, which is an incredible initiative for up-and-coming watchmakers, designers, movement makers and artists from all over the world. It’s the kind of thing the industry really needs. The initiative shines light on all facets of the watch industry and that’s amazing, especially because it’s being organized on such a huge scale by a brand like Louis Vuitton. The fact that it's modeled after the LVMH prize for fashion makes it even more exciting! It will certainly be a life-changing opportunity for the winner,” says Chu.

The evaluation criteria include design, creativity, innovation, craftsmanship and technical complexity. The 20 finalists become five, and will be announced publicly in December 2023. In January 2024, the finalists will get the opportunity to present to the jury in Paris, and the winner will be announced at a reception held by Louis Vuitton in their honor. 

The true fruits of this award won't be so easily determined. Who can say which next-generation industry leaders, or visionary creators will have this award, and the patronage of Louis Vuitton to thank — alongside natural talent and hard work, of course — for their start in the world of watchmaking.

Experts for the 2023 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for independent creatives

Ariel Adams, founder and owner, A Blog to Watch Media
Hajime Asaoka, CEO, Precision Watch Tokyo Co Ltd & independent watchmaker 
George Bamford, founder, Bamford Watch Department and Bamford London
Enrico Barbasini, Master watchmaker, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Cara Barrett, founder, Parchie Inc.
Carol Besler, journalist specialized in Watches & Jewelry
Antonio Calce, CEO, executive board member and shareholder, Greubel Forsey 
Austen Chu, co-founder and CEO, Wristcheck
Ben Clymer, founder and CEO, Hodinkee
Adam Craniotes, founder and president, RedBar Group
Frank Declerck, journalist
Elizabeth Doerr, author and journalist specialized in horology
James Dowling, collector, author and journalist
Philippe Dufour, Master watchmaker
Denis Flageollet, Master watchmaker
Carole Forsestier Kasapi, movements director, Tag Heuer
Jack Forster, global editorial director, Watchbox
Nick Foulkes, author, journalist and editor
Jeffery Fowler, CEO, Hodinkee
Maxime Frédéric, pastry Chef, Cheval Blanc Paris
Frank Geelen, Founder and editor-in-chief, Monochrome Watches
Frank Gehry, architect and designer
Evelyne Genta, Ambassador of the Principality of Monaco to the UK and to the Republic of Kazakhstan
Rémi Guillemin, Head of Europe watches department, Christie’s Europe
Sam Hines, Managing director of Loupe This and Senior International Consultant to Patti Wong & Associates
Kim Jones, Artistic Director Dior Men’s and Fendi womenswear and couture
Wei Koh, Founder and group editorial director, Revolution & the Rake
Eric Ku, co-founder, Loupe This
Carine Maillard, Director of the GPHG
Shawn Mehta, Founder, Watch4Moi
Auro Montanari, CEO, Aurel Spa and Teko Spa
Tim Mosso, Director of media and watch specialist, Watch Box
Michel Navas, Master watchmaker, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Marc Newson, Industrial designer
François-Xavier Overstake, watch enthusiast and founder of Equation du Temps blog
Laurent Picciotto, Owner and Director, Chronopassion
Anita Porchet, Master enameller
Justin Reis, co-founder and CEO, The WatchBox
Rexhep Rexhepi, Master watchmaker, Akrivia
Mike Shanlikian, VP of finance, Lear Corporation
Dick Steenman, Master engraver
Jiaxian Su, Founder, SJX Watches
Michael Tay, Watchmaker specialist, The Hour Glass
Kari Voutilainen, Master watchmaker
Suzanne Wong, Editor in chief, WorldTempus

To find out more, head to louisvuittonwatchprize.com