Must have Cartier Watches in 2025: 10 Collectors’ Picks
Discover 10 collectible Cartier watches — from limited Tanks to skeleton Santos and high-jewellery Panthères — available now at Wristcheck with verified specs and provenance.
Cartier is a house built on icons—from the Tank’s battlefield origins to today’s Panthère cuffs and SolarBeat calibres. Its most elusive references don’t tend to sit under boutique lighting for long. They move discreetly, often by word of mouth or through the velvet quiet of private salons. When one resurfaces, it matters.
We’ve gathered ten such examples currently in stock at Wristcheck: ruby-set Tanks, stealth-luxe SolarBeats, skeletonised calibres, and limited editions barely seen outside auction catalogues. Every piece is authenticated, condition-verified, and collector-worthy.
Watches Mentioned
- Tank Jewellery Yellow-Gold Black
- Panthère Cuff de Cartier
- Santos de Cartier Skeleton
- Tank Louis Cartier “Red Dial”
- Santos-Dumont Taupe Grey LE
- Panthère Diamond Black-Dial
- Tank Must SolarBeat
- Ballon Bleu RG & Steel Diamond Pink
- Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary
- Tank Jewellery Diamond & Ruby
1. Tank Jewellery Yellow-Gold Diamond Black Dial
If Cartier ever made film noir, this would be the watch. Bold, pavé-set brancards flank a high-contrast black dial that recalls lacquered lacquer cigarette boxes from the 1930s. Behind the curtain, the quartz calibre 157 keeps the form razor-thin and ultra-reliable.
This isn’t a watch you stumble into. It’s haute joaillerie with just enough minimalism to whisper rather than shout—proof Cartier knows how to do maximalism with discipline.
Specs
-Case: 24 mm × 6 mm yellow gold
-Movement: Quartz calibre 157
-Hero spec: Brancards fully set with brilliants
-Reference: HPI01592
-Production run: 2020 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 82,000
2. Panthère Cuff de Cartier
This isn’t a bracelet with a watch inside—it’s sculpture that happens to tell time. Made entirely in white gold and constructed without a clasp, the Panthère Cuff de Cartier evokes mid-century modernism in wearable form. The dial is deliberately minimal, letting the openwork silhouette take precedence.
It channels Jeanne Toussaint’s original Panthère vision—less feline, more fluid tension between ornament and structure. One of the most architectural pieces in Cartier’s modern lineup.
Specs:
-Case: 19 mm white-gold cuff
-Movement: Quartz calibre 157
-Hero spec: Clasp-less open-cuff construction
-Reference: WGPN0018
-Production run: 2021 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 38,000
3. Santos de Cartier Skeleton
The skeletonised Santos is Cartier at its most technically performative. Instead of placing a movement under a dial, Cartier made the movement the dial—designing bridges shaped like Roman numerals that support the gear train directly. It’s engineering as architecture.
Collectors prize the 9611 MC calibre for this feat alone. Add in Cartier’s patented strap-swap system and you’ve got a piece that transitions between formality and flexibility in seconds. A modern icon with historical echoes of the 1904 original.
Specs:
-Case: 39 mm stainless steel
-Movement: Manual-wind calibre 9611 MC skeleton
-Hero spec: Roman-numeral bridges double as dial
-Reference: WHSA0015
-Production run: 2019 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 26,600
4. Tank Louis Cartier “Red Dial”
There’s something cinematic about the red lacquer Tank. Its palette recalls Art Deco interiors and 1920s glamour, yet its slimness is pure modernist restraint. The calibre 1917 MC, Cartier’s in-house hand-wound engine, powers this limited piece with quiet elegance.
This isn’t a watch for everyone—and that’s the point. It riffs on Cartier’s 1990s CPCP runs, when dials were painted rather than printed. Now cult-classic, and increasingly hard to find.
Specs:
-Case: 25 mm yellow gold
-Movement: Manual-wind calibre 1917 MC
-Hero spec: Limited-edition crimson lacquer dial
-Reference: WGTA0093
-Production run: 2021 limited edition
-Approx. price: US$ 11,700
5. Santos-Dumont Taupe Grey LE
Inspired by the canvas-covered aircraft of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this taupe-grey dial model does what few modern Cartiers manage: feel new without abandoning legacy. The minimalist layout lets the sunburst finish breathe, while the ultra-thin calibre 430 MC echoes Cartier’s obsession with finesse.
This edition was capped at a few hundred pieces, each case-back engraved and individually numbered. A study in understatement.
Specs:
-Case: 31 mm yellow gold
-Movement: Manual-wind calibre 430 MC
-Hero spec: Taupe sunburst dial, limited run
-Reference: WGSA0097
-Production run: 2023 limited edition
-Approx. price: US$ 14,000
6. Panthère de Cartier Diamond Black Dial
The Panthère needs no introduction—but this variant sharpens its silhouette. A diamond-set bezel reframes the watch as a jewellery piece, while the black lacquer dial enhances contrast and clarity.
The bracelet remains one of the most comfortable in Cartier’s catalogue, thanks to its fabric-like drape and ultra-flexible link system. Functionally simple, visually powerful.
Specs:
-Case: 22 mm yellow gold
-Movement: Quartz calibre 157
-Hero spec: Diamond bezel with black lacquer dial
-Reference: WJPN0053
-Production run: 2022 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 25,122
7. Tank Must SolarBeat
Cartier’s SolarBeat line hides photovoltaic technology behind its Roman numerals. To the eye, it’s a classic Tank Must; beneath the surface, light passes through the lacquer and powers a calibre that won’t need servicing for 16 years.
It’s both a nod to the environmental present and a sly subversion of tradition. Watchmaking that honours form, while upgrading function.
Specs:
-Case: 25 mm stainless steel
-Movement: SolarBeat quartz
-Hero spec: 16-year service-interval eco-movement
-Reference: WSTA0090
-Production run: 2021 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 3,300
8. Ballon Bleu Rose Gold & Steel Diamond Pink Dial
Among the most elusive Ballon Bleu configurations, this two-tone model pairs rose gold with steel, anchoring a pink soleil dial that oscillates between blush and salmon in different light. Diamond-set lugs and bezel tip it firmly into high-jewellery territory.
The calibre 1847 MC ensures mechanical credibility, while the integrated crown guard keeps lines soft and symmetrical. A collector’s sleeper hit.
Specs:
-Case: 33 mm rose-gold & steel
-Movement: Automatic calibre 1847 MC
-Hero spec: Diamond bezel & lugs with pink soleil dial
-Reference: WJBB0077
-Production run: 2022 – present
-Approx. price: US$ 29,700
9. Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary
Cartier’s 2021 reissue of the Tank Cintrée wasn’t just nostalgic—it was forensic. This limited run replicates the original 1921 design almost exactly, from the curved crystal and Breguet-style hands to the hand-wound movement.
Only 150 pieces were made, all now absorbed into collections or auction circles. If you see one outside a catalogue, it’s worth pausing.
Specs:
-Case: 46 mm × 23 mm curved yellow gold
-Movement: Manual-wind calibre 9780 MC
-Hero spec: Anniversary run of 150 pieces
-Reference: WGTA0057
-Production run: 2021 limited edition
-Approx. price: US$ 60,700
10. Tank Jewellery White Gold Diamond & Ruby Black Dial
This model exists at the border between horology and ornament. The brancards are set with baguette rubies; the bezel, with brilliant diamonds. Beneath the glamour, a quartz movement ensures the case stays slim and wrist-balanced.
Extremely few of these are made—and even fewer hit the open market.
Specs:
-Case: 24 mm white gold, diamonds & baguette rubies
-Movement: Quartz calibre 157
-Hero spec: Ruby-set brancards with diamond bezel
-Reference: HPI01595
-Production run: 2022 – present (very low volume)
-Approx. price: US$ 217,300
FAQ
Why are lacquer-dial Tanks so sought-after?
Short, numbered runs echo 1990s CPCP pieces, pushing collector demand.
Does SolarBeat ever need a battery swap?
Not for roughly 16 years; light recharges a super-capacitor, not a cell.
Are Panthère bracelets comfortable daily?
Yes—tiny articulated links drape like fabric, avoiding pinch or “bracelet bite.”
What makes the Santos Skeleton movement special?
Its bridges form the Roman numerals, doubling as dial and architecture.
Do gem-set Tanks hold value?
Historically yes—low production and high-jewellery appeal support premiums.
How water-resistant is the Ballon Bleu?
30 m; fine for rain, but skip the pool.
Is the Taupe-Grey Santos-Dumont a numbered edition?
Yes—case-back engraving and production under 500 pieces.
Are Cartier quartz calibres serviceable long-term?
Cartier and authorised centres stock parts for decades.
Does the Cintrée’s curve affect durability?
No—the sapphire crystal flexes with the camber; case integrity is uncompromised.
Can I switch straps on the Santos Skeleton?
Push-button lugs let you toggle between steel bracelet and leather in seconds.
From ruby-set Tanks to architectural skeletons, these ten pieces trace the less-travelled lanes of Cartier’s catalogue. The kind of watches that rarely surface, and even more rarely linger.
Every watch listed on Wristcheck is fully authenticated, transparently priced, and curated with collectors in mind. Whether you're searching for your first Cartier or need a second opinion before making the leap, our team is here to help.
Start browsing, or reach out if you’re ready to lock in the right piece.